Friday, December 9, 2011

Interview with EATALY'S Wine Director

"Interview with EATALY'S Wine Director

This month we spoke with Dan Amatuzzi, Wine Director for Eataly in New York City. Dan tells us about his experience and tips for selling Soave wine.


Tell us about Soave month at Eataly (May 2011).
In May, 2011, Eataly and Soave teamed up for a memorable month of Soave-related events. More than 12 different Soave wines were featured throughout the restaurants and the Eataly wine shop. Included in the promotion were consumer tastings and classes, special food and wine pairings, and wine-related conferences. On display were the versatility, approachability, and elegance of one of the most important appellations in Italy. We estimate that more than 50,000 people were exposed to the splendors of Soave during the promotion in the store alone.

Who is the typical Soave drinker these days?
The beauty of Soave is that it's seemingly timeless. In the United States, Soave was one of the appellations that provided the foundation for the Italian wine market, and the name, "Soave", conjures up great memories for the baby boomers who indulged in Soave wines during the 60s and 70s. Now there's a new generation of twenty-somethings discovering Soave wines. Those who stay loyal to the appellation are those who prefer, enjoy, and appreciate clean, mineral, fresh, and exuberant whites.

How do you make the sale with Soave? What is its biggest selling point?
While I find that many northern whites are expressive of their climate and soil, Soave wines seem to cater to the crowd that prefers more floral and aromatic qualities. Grapes like Friulano, Sylvaner, Trebbiano, and Arneis often produce racier and more mineral-driven wines, which are excellent in their own right, but Garganega is unique in that the and intoxicating aromas always put it over the top.

Do you recommend Soave as an aperitivo wine?
Soave is exceptional as an apertivo as well as a first or second course wine. I prefer to serve Soave with passed finger foods, cheeses, cured meats, and grilled fish dishes.

Do you notice Soave wines selling better with screwcaps or corks (or no difference)?
No difference

Have you seen sales of Soave rise in recent months/years?
Soave is a bit cyclical. In the past few years it's been more popular, in part, because demand for Pinot Grigio and other white wines has waned.

How are Soave wines priced compared to other Italian white wines?
For the most part, Soave wines are still priced very competitively compared to other northern white appellations and they're good additions to any serious wine list or retail shop.

What do you make of the idea of white wines for winter? When is it appropriate to drink Soave in winter?
Just because the mercury drops doesn't mean it's exclusively red wine season. Crisp whites like Soave are great accompaniments to hearty stews and broths, and other rich comfort foods. Soave is also a great option when you're cuddled up by the fire with a loved one.

Are you seeing any trends in white wine, generally?
A lot of producers seem to be scaling back on oak aging for white wines. Many wines that were once hit with smaller, newer oak barrels are now seeing larger and neutral wood. The resulting wines are lighter, fresher, and the acidity shows better in the first few years after bottling.

Dan Amatuzzi is the Beverage Director at Eataly in Manhattan. He's authored a book, Italian Wine For The Student, and also writes a blog, wineforthestudent.com. He was selected for Zagat's inaugural class of "30 under 30" restaurant professionals in New York City in 2011. He's the wine professor at Eataly's La Scuola, where he teaches a variety of wine and food classes. He also conducts charity wine tastings for food charities supporting hunger and homelessness. He's currently pursuing his MBA degree from the Stern School of Business at NYU focusing his studies on environmental sustainability and entrepreneurship. You can sometimes find him Sunday evenings at Eataly's Birreria where he plays in a band with other members of the Eataly family.

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